By Da Two Japanee Bruddahs
Kyle Tatsumoto and Keith Kamisugi
April 2002, Nichi Bei Times

Most of the old landmarks in Waipahu, an old plantation town on the West Side of Oahu, are a distant memory. Arakawa's, the grand-daddy of all plantation stores (imagine if Soko Hardware was as big as Macy's Union Square and also sold clothing, food, appliances and palaka shirts) and the Oahu Sugar Company mill are now just empty shells. One plantation era tradition, however, continues on in Waipahu.

Ishiharaya, Nobuo and Sasayo Ishihara's candy store, established in 1920, stood next to the original Arakawa's on Waipahu's historic Depot Street. Old-timers fondly recall the Ishiharas for their shave ice served with homemade ice cream and their five-cent azuki doughnuts.

The family still produces snacks, primarily Ishiharaya tea cookies (senbei). Next time you go Hawai'i, gotta try some Ishiharaya senbei. It's da bes! Especially da ginger ones. You know, da pink ones wit da kine sugar on top. So ono! Can get 'em at Shirokiya or Marukai, but mo' betta buy 'em at da Ishiharaya factory in Waipahu. Mo' fresh, yeah?

Among Japanese American family businesses, what really makes Ishiharaya stand out, aside from their ono senbei, is the fact that the torch has successfully been passed on to the third generation. Ira Ishihara, grandson of Nobuo and Sasayo, has assumed management of the business that his uncle, Mitsuo Ishihara, has operated since 1970.

Although he grew up surrounded by senbei, like most sansei and yonsei, Ira had no interest in getting involved in the family business. He got a job with an airline, and moved to Los Angeles, where he lived for ten years. Life was good, but still, something was not right. Something, maybe family, maybe the weather, maybe the food, beckoned Ira back to Hawai'i. Nah, wuz da senbei dat wen call.

With uncle Mitsuo hinting at retirement and no one else to carry on the family tradition, it appeared that Ishiharaya's time was limited. And so, Ira returned home two years ago, and began working with his uncle to learn the senbei trade. Ira felt a responsibility to his family, in particular to his grandparents, whose toil and sacrifice built Ishiharaya 80 years earlier.

While still working part-time for the airline, Ira estimates that he spends over 60 hours per week on the family business. Despite the hard work and long hours, he now realizes that returning to Ishiharaya was the right move, not only for the family business and senbei lovers, but for him, personally.

Initially, it was a tough decision, but for Ira, there is a tremendous satisfaction in knowing that he is keeping the dreams of Nobuo and Sasayo Ishihara alive. And, he adds, there is a certain gratification that comes from creating a product with your own hands, then seeing the enjoyment it gives your many satisfied customers every day. You just can't get that type of personal fulfillment from creating computer spreadsheets or writing contracts.

By the way, Ira Ishihara says that if you can't make it to Hawai'i to try Ishiharaya senbei (or you no can get somebody in Hawai'i to send you some), you can find it in Southern California, at Mikawaya (yeah, da mochi ice cream place).

Keeping tradition alive was also the motivation that led to the establishment of Nikkei Traditions in San Francisco's Japantown in 1999. It's sansei founders, including Japanee Bruddah Kyle, had watched so many long-time community fixtures such as Nichi Bei Bussan, Yamada Seika and Jim's Drugs disappear.

Often, the closure was not for economic reasons, but simply because the owners were retiring and had nobody to continue the business. Afta all, our parents wen work hahd, so we could go college an' be one doctor or lawyer (or public relations professional or banker), not fo' work 80 hours a week running one restaurant or gift shop in Japantown.

As a way of reversing this trend, Nikkei Traditions, which features a wide range of crafts and products by Japanese American artists and companies, was born. Its primary mission is to promote Japanese American culture, artists and businesses, and to perpetuate Japantown's long tradition of Nikkei enterprises.

After three years, the store, located on the second floor of the Miyako Mall, has gained a loyal following because of its unique and constantly expanding product offering. Many of its Japanese American lines, including Cane Haul Road, Ikeda's and Naturally Petite, are exclusive to Nikkei Traditions and cannot be found anywhere else in the Bay Area.

The owners recently franchised the Nikkei Traditions idea, resulting in a second store on Jackson Street, in San Jose's Japantown. After all, for Nikkei Traditions, as well as Ishiharaya, success is measured not only in dollars and cents, but more importantly, in keeping a tradition alive.

Kyle Tatsumoto wen go Castle. Keith Kamisugi wen go Mililani. So wot?
Two Japanee Bruddahs is a monthly column in the Nichi Bei Times.

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