Maui no ka 'oi
Nichi Bei Times, April 2003
"They say that Maui no ka 'oi and I agree
That Maui no ka 'oi is the only place for me…"When it comes to ono local treats, the words of the late songwriter Kui Lee were never more accurate, Maui truly is no ka 'oi, the best!
Tasaka Guri-Guri
No trip to Maui would be complete without a visit to Tasaka Guri-Guri, in the Maui Mall (70 East Ka'ahumanu Avenue, Kahului) for a strawberry or pineapple guri-guri. Even former President Bill Clinton made it a point to stop at Tasaka's for guri-guri while in Maui for a Patsy Mink tribute a few months ago.
Guri-guri is a delicious frozen concoction, sort of a cross between sherbet and ice cream. Nobody knows exactly when, but guri-guri was invented by Jokichi Tasaka over 80 years ago, during plantation days, and sold, along with manju and yokan, out of his confectionery, Tasaka Shogetsu-do. Tasaka's best selling product eventually grew so popular, that by the 1940s, the family changed the name of their small shop to Tasaka Guri-Guri.
The guri-guri name is actually plantation pidgin for "goodie-goodie," the original name of this treat. According to Cindy Tasaka-Ing, fourth generation guri-guri-maker, da recipe no stay written down - da family members just know 'em.
Make sure you try 'em wen you stay go Maui, cuz no can get 'em in Honolulu, San Francisco or anyplace else on top dis planet. Visitors from 'Oahu and other islands even take guri-guri home as omiyage in special foil-lined bags.
Home Maid Bakery
Joe Kozuki originally operated a bakery in downtown Wailuku, Tasty Crust, that was famous for its small, tasty-crusted four-inch pies. Tasty Crust sold thousands to servicemen stationed in Maui before and during WWII. Maui old-timers, in fact, will tell you that Joe Kozuki, with his single-serving pies, actually invented the turnover.
Kozuki sold the bakery in the late 1940s, and started a health food store called Vita Health Foods. (Tasty Crust, now a coffee shop, is still in operation on Mill Street in Wailuku town and is renown for its pancakes and breakfasts.) He tried to sell healthy products, such as a greaseless doughnut, but bakery products far outsold health products so Vita Health Foods was eventually converted to Home Maid Bakery.
While a very good bakery, the product that put Home Maid "on the map" was its Crispy Manju. Combining his tasty pie crust with Japanese manju, Kozuki invented the Crispy Manju in the 1960s. Shaped like a traditional manju, the Crispy Manju has a buttery, flaky pastry shell, with fillings such as sweet bean, imo, apple, peach, coconut and pineapple. Dey all ono, but the coconut is one winnah!
You can pick up Home Maid's Crispy Manju at the bakery (1005 East Lower Main, Wailuku), at many grocery stores in Maui and even at a few locations in Honolulu.
Shishido Manju Shop
If you prefer traditional manju, head to Shishido Manju Shop, a stone's throw from Home Maid Bakery (758 East Lower Main, Wailuku). For over 50 years, the Shishido family has been making outstanding mochi and manju. In fact, loyal customers trek from other islands to Maui, just to pick up a box of Shishido manju, what many consider to be the best in Hawai'i. Ho brah, try da peanut butter mochi!
A word of warning to first-time customers. The shop is run by the somewhat grouchy Garnett Shishido, who some refer to as the "Manju Nazi." Ey, but no be scared him. He just one misundastood artist who stay very serious about his mochi and manju.
Sam Sato's
Kinda hard fo' find, but well worth da search, Sam Sato's stay hidden in one industrial park in Wailuku (1750 Wili Pa Loop). Run by the Sato family since 1933, Sam Sato's is the perfect lunch spot. They offer a selection of very good plate lunches, but locals go to Sam Sato's for their saimin.
Sam Sato's is especially known for its famous Dry Saimin, a variation unique to Maui (and maybe unique to Sam Sato's). Unlike traditional saimin, which is served in a bowl with broth, dry saimin is served like zaru soba, with a heaping mound of warm chewy noodles, slightly seasoned with shoyu, and a small bowl of broth on the side. Jus' pour da broth on top da noodles or dip da noodles inside da broth. Ono, either way!
Only open for breakfast and lunch, Sam Sato's is also popular for its small white bean manju (traditional, not da crispy kine). Garans, no can eat jus' one! These manju can be frozen and travel well - good fo' omiyage.
T. Komoda Store & Bakery
Drive into the small paniolo town of Makawao in Upcountry Maui, and you will automatically be drawn by the alluring aroma of freshly baked goods to T. Komoda Store & Bakery (3674 Baldwin Avenue). People travel far and wide for their legendary Cream Puffs and Long Johns, but try their an-pan and Azuki Pie, too. Yes, Azuki Pie. It really is much better than it might sound. No go Sunday or Wednesday - stay closed.
Kay den, all dis talk about local grinds stay make us hungry. Gotta go catch da next flight to Maui.
Keith Kamisugi and Kyle Tatsumoto are da Two Japanee Bruddahs. Visit them on the Web at http://www.twojapaneebruddahs.com or e-mail them at wot@twojapaneebruddahs.com.
Henry
Tasaka serves up another guri-guri at Tasaka Guri-Guri. (Photo by Gary
T. Kubota, Honolulu Star-Bulletin)