A Touch of Hawai'i in the Easy Bay

Nichi Bei Times - January 2005

Tokyo Fish Market owners (from left), Lee Nakamura and Larry Fujita.

By Keith Kamisugi and Kyle Tatsumoto
The Two Japanee Bruddahs

What to do when you develop a sudden, intense craving for Zippy's Chili or S&S Saimin? Most Hawai'i expatriates know to make a quick run to Takahashi Market in San Mateo for perhaps the best selection of Island foods in the Bay Area. Or, for transplanted kama'aina living in the South Bay, Santo Market and Dobashi Market in San Jose's Japantown can usually satisfy the need for comfort foods from home.

But if you wen grow up on one 600 square mile island, and you stay live in Berkeley or Marin (like Japanee Bruddah Kyle), driving to San Mateo or San Jose is like one cross-country trip. Betta pack plenny snacks and drinks fo' da long drive. Maybe even gotta stop one or two times on da way fo' benjo break. Ey, small keed time, visiting Auntie in Pearl City from Kaneohe was one day trip.

Fortunately, for those in the East Bay, there's a convenient alternative, Tokyo Fish Market in Albany (1220 San Pablo Avenue, near Gilman Street). It's a small Japanese fish market and grocery store operated by two Sansei, Larry Fujita and Lee Nakamura.

Tokyo Fish Market, still located at its original site, was first opened for business in 1963 by Larry's parents, Isamu "Sam" and Lucille Fujita. After taking over the business, Larry asked his long-time friend, Lee Nakamura, who was the seafood department manager at the well-known Berkeley Bowl Marketplace, to join him.

Initially, it was strictly a fish market, catering to primarily Issei and Nisei. Over the years, however, the market has seen a dramatic change in its clientele. As Fujita notes, their Japanese American business has declined as the Sansei and Yonsei don't seem to cook, or at least they don't cook Japanese dishes. However, as their original Nikkei customer base continues to shrink, non-Japanese customers, especially enlightened Berkeley foodies have been accounting for a larger and larger percentage of their business.

Fujita is not sure how Hawai'i food products first found their way into the market's product mix, but he notes that there always seemed to be a natural connection between Japanese and Hawaiian foods. He admits, in fact, that in many ways, he feels a greater affinity with the Island
way of life, as compared to traditional Japanese culture.

Okay, Tokyo Fish Market doesn't compare to Tamura's Super Market on Oahu, but in addition to the aforementioned Zippy's Chili and S&S Saimin, you can also find Island staples such as frozen lau lau, kalua pork and ogo, Aloha Shoyu, Diamond Bakery crackers, Malolo syrup and Hawaiian salt. Other Hawai'i favorites include Maui Brand takuan and sanbai zuke, and both Halms and Kohala kim chee. Oh, and Redondo's brand Portuguese sausage. They even receive a shipment of fresh poi every Wednesday.

Noticing the popularity of Hawai'i food items, Fujita occasionally brings in non-food items from Hawai'i. They've sold aloha print tote bags, and Fujita noted that Hawaiian ornaments were a popular item during the holidays. Friends in the 50th State keep him apprised of the most popular new items in the Islands.

After more than 40 years, Tokyo Fish Market is still best known for the freshness and quality of their fish. On any given day, you can generally find 50 different items or more in their fresh fish counter, ranging from hirame to toro to hamachi, and everything in between.

Besides having some of the freshest seafood around, Tokyo Fish Market is also know for its aloha. For novices, it's not as intimidating as other markets can be. The San Francisco Bay Guardian, in its "Best of the Bay 1999," listed Tokyo Fish Market as the "Best Place to Catch Fish Without a Hook." Disappointed by often haughty service in other Japanese fish markets, they noted, "Inside, among the crush of merchandise are people who will answer questions. Patiently. And smile while you stupidly hold up the line. And the fish is great too."

If you've visited Tokyo Fish Market in recent months, you've no doubt noticed the hubbub of construction activity behind the store. Fujita says they're embarked upon a long overdue expansion of the market. When completed, hopefully by March, the store will be nearly three times larger. Nakamura is especially excited about the new, larger seafood counter. He says it will allow him to offer a wider variety of fresh fish from Hawai'i, flown in daily. Ho, goin' be mo' beeg den one 99 Ranch Market. Okay, maybe not. We just hope dey stay expanding da Hawaiian food section.

Da next time you stay in Albany, go check out Tokyo Fish Market and tell Larry and Lee da Two Japanee Bruddahs wen say "howzit!"

--

Keith Kamisugi and Kyle Tatsumoto are da Two Japanee Bruddahs. Visit them on the Web at www.twojapaneebruddahs.com. Or e-mail them at wot@twojapaneebruddahs.com.

 

Read past articles here